Easter is Coming

Hey guys!! Here we are, a new season of Game of Thrones and a week away from Easter!!

I have just the thing to keep those hands busy while watching that will also serve as great Easter decor for years to come!!

I’m going to show you how to make Easter Egg Garland!!

So one of the best things about this pattern is that it’s SUPER EASY to customize to make your own.
Here’s what you need

  • 1 main color for the base
  • 3-10+ other colors for the eggs
  • Fiberfill (you won’t need much)
  • Yarn needle
  • 3.75 mm Crochet hook
  • 4.5 mm Crochet Hook
  • Stitch Marker(s)
  • Measuring tape or a ruler (optional)
Kitty helper optional

Some notes about the pattern.

This is a very easily customizable pattern.
I used worsted weight yarn and a 3.75mm hook.
You can use bigger or smaller yarn just adjust the hook size to be SMALLER than what is recommended for your yarn.

This is a great way to use up leftover yarn that is in your stash! You don’t need a lot of each color!!

Let’s get started!!
There are many ways you can approach this project, how you do is entirely up to you.

You will need to figure out how long you would like your garland to be, my fireplace mantel is about 62 inches across. So I made a chain that was a bit longer than that to start.
Now depending on how you want to space your eggs out, that plus the length you need will determine how many eggs you need.
Now, if you don’t want to bother with trying to figure it out (spacing, measurements, how many eggs to make) that’s totally fine!! The first one I made was pretty informal, the second… still kinda doing my own thing.
I’ll talk more about how to make this work later on.

If you prefer accuracy, that’s fine as well!!
First you’ll need to figure out just how long you want your garland to be. I initially made this as decor for my office. Mine was 44″ long.

My second one was made for my mantel at home above my fireplace. It measured 70 inches total, with 3 inches on each side with no egg, meaning from 1st egg to last egg it was 64 inches. It worked really well for me. I spaced my eggs 5 inches apart and ended up with 13 eggs.

So lets do an example here.
The length I need it to be would be 60 inches from egg to egg. Add an extra 3-4 inches on either side as well so that you have something to grab at the end and attach it with. So 3 inches on each side would be an extra 6 inches.
We need a chain that is about 66 inches. Spacing our eggs 6 inches apart would mean we need 10 eggs. If you do 5 inches apart it will take 12 eggs.
That’s just a general example.
You make this the way you want to. If you want an egg every 3 inches, do it! The more the merrier!!

I also mentioned that you can determine how many eggs to make another way. You could always start with the base chain, and make and add eggs as you go! I did that for my last 3 because I honestly didn’t care for doing the math and figuring it out. I tend to work more on the fly than anything.

You can also space your eggs evenly without a ruler using several other methods I’ll mention!

So lets start making some eggs!!

Eggs are to be worked in continuous rounds.
I use invisible decreases to lessen the visibility of my decreases. You do not have to do this but I will teach you how!

In Magic Ring, ch1, 8sc

2 sc in each st around (16)

1 sc in each st around (16)

Starts to curl but can still be pressed flat

1 sc in each st around (16)

Starting to round out
When it starts to round out, I usually take the loose end from the beginning and place it inside to keep it out of the way.

Sc in the next 2 st, invisible decrease; repeat 3x around (12)

I’ll teach you how to do an invisible decrease.
I just recently learned how to do it myself since immersing myself more into amigurumi as of late.
Go ahead and sc in the first 2 stitches of this new round, don’t forget your stitch marker!!
Then instead of inserting your hook in the next stitch, insert your hook in the front loop of the next stitch.

To start an invisible decrease, place hook in front loop of next stitch.

Now insert your hook in the front loop of the next stitch

Insert hook in front loop of the next stitch
Another view of hook inserted in next 2 front loops

Yarn over and pull through the 2 front loops.

Yarn over

After pulling through the two front loops, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook to complete the invisible decrease.

After you pull yarn through 2 front loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook to complete the invisible decrease

You did it!! I’m proud of you!! You can use an invisible decrease anytime you work with amigurumi for a professional finish!

Can you spot the decrease? I did 2 sc after the decrease so you can see how great it blends in!!

Sc in the next 4 st, invisible decrease; repeat once more (10)

It’s shaping up!

Stuff the egg with fiberfill, just enough to hold it’s shape and fill the inside.

This project is fantastic because it takes very little from our supplies!

Invisible decrease around. (5)

I always finish my eggs off by then inserting my hook in the st across from my last and slip stitching. It creates a nice finish.

Slip stitch across top for closure, a clean finish

Make as many eggs as you need in any variation of colors you would like

Now for the main piece. This will very much be determined by the length that you want.
Using your main color and 4.5mm hook, chain until you reach your desired length. Using a slightly bigger hook here will help you get back into the stitches while slip stitching. Try to keep a consistent tension.

Once you have reached your desired length, sl st into the second ch from the hook. I usually switch back to the 3.75mm hook for this bit.

insert hook in second chain from the hook and slip stitch

Continue until you feel you have enough length at the end to add an egg. Or measure it out if you would like. 3-4 inches would be my recommendation.

ch 6, sl st into top of egg, sl st back up the chain that was made and into the next ch.

Ch 6
insert hook in top of the egg to make a sl st
Sl st in the egg, then sl st back into the chain

Sl st back up the ch6 and back onto the foundation chain

Continue slip stitching and adding eggs as you go until you finish!!

Continue sl st down the chain and adding eggs as you go.

Now I mentioned that there was another way to measure length between eggs. What I did was after adding my second egg, I would continue to sl st down the chain until I thought it looked close, then folded the base chain on itself to measure out where the next egg goes.
You can also lay it out and place stitch markers everywhere you’d like to add your eggs!

That’s it!! Super simple and to the point, quick, easy, adorable Easter Decor!!

I think adding other components to this would make it that much more adorable! Head over to Burgundy and Blush for a SUPER CUTE FREE Easter bunny pattern that would be a fantastic addition in between the eggs!


Worsted weight yarn, multiple colors
Yarn Needle
3.75mm crochet hook
4.5 mm crochet hook
Stitch marker(s)
Measuring tape/ruler (optional)

Ch- Chain
Sl st- Slip Stitch
Sc- Single Crochet


worked in continuous rounds with a 3.75mm hook
8sc in magic ring
2sc in each st around (16)
1sc in each st around (16)
1sc in each st around (16)
1sc in the next 2 st, invisible decrease; Repeat 3 times (12)
1sc in the next 4 st, invisible decrease; Repeat once (10)
Stuff with fiberfill.
Invisible decrease around (5)
Close with sl st across top.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Using 4.5mm hook
Chain to desired length.
Switch to 3.75 mm hook
Sl st in 2nd chain from hook.
Sl st across until you reach the point you want to add your first egg (examples above)
Ch 6, sl st to the top of the egg, sl st back into the chain just created, back up to the foundation chain.
Continue this process to add all eggs then sl st to the end of the foundation chain.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

You’re done!!!

As I mentioned above I think bunnies would make an awesome addition to this pattern so check out Burgundy and Blush for a really cute, free Easter bunny pattern.

I really hope you enjoyed working on this project and it brings joy into your life!

I’d love to see your work!!
Please feel free to share your work on social media!!
Tag your work with #sharebearcrochet
I would also really appreciate a link back to this free pattern and a shout out!!
Please feel free to sell any works you make from my pattern, just show me some love by linking back to my pattern and crediting my design.

Do not distribute my pattern please, always link back to my page!
If you would like an ad free, printer friendly version you can purchase here for $1

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